Car FactsIE

VW Golf Mk7 front brake pads and discs: step by step, with torque settings

This is how to change the front brake pads and discs on a Mk7 Volkswagen Golf, step by step, with the torque settings, and the one check you must never skip before you drive off.

🎬 The video of this job goes live on our YouTube channel on Sunday, 22 November.

Parts and tools

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Front discs and pads (check 276, 288 or 312 mm) (example photo)Front discs and pads (check 276, 288 or 312 mm)See on eBay.ie →Front pads (if your discs are still in spec) (example photo)Front pads (if your discs are still in spec)See on eBay.ie →Torque wrench (example photo)Torque wrenchSee on eBay.ie →🔧Brake cleanerSee on eBay.ie →

Example photos, not the exact part (Wikimedia Commons): Treemonster86, CC BY-SA 3.0; Heron2 (assumed author), CC BY-SA 3.0.

Before you start: Front brakes only

This is the front brakes only. Unlike the rear, the fronts don't need the electric parking brake put into service mode. Front discs on a Mk7 can be 276, 288 or 312 millimetres, so order your parts by registration.

Parts

Fit new pads whenever you fit new discs, and always do both sides together, so the car brakes evenly. You'll also want brake cleaner and anti-squeal paste.

Tools

Tools: a 17 millimetre wheel socket, a 13 millimetre socket and a 17 millimetre spanner for the caliper, a T30 Torx bit, a socket for the carrier bolts, a piston wind-back tool, a torque wrench, a wire brush, and axle stands.

Safety: Chock, loosen, lift

Chock the rear wheels, open the bonnet and take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir. Loosen the wheel bolts with the car on the ground, then lift the front and set it on axle stands.

Step 1: Wheel off

Take off the wheel bolts and the wheel. Hold the wheel as the last bolt comes out.

Step 2: Undo the caliper bolts

Clean the two caliper guide bolts at the back. Undo them with the 13 millimetre socket, holding the guide pin with the 17 millimetre spanner.

Step 2: Caliper off, tied up

Lever the pads apart a little and lift the caliper off. Tie it up out of the way. Never let it hang on the brake hose, and don't press the brake pedal while it's off.

Step 3: Old pads and carrier off

Take out the old pads. Then undo the two big bolts at the back of the carrier, and take the carrier off.

Step 4: Old disc off, clean the hub

Undo the small T30 screw that holds the disc, and tap the disc off with a rubber mallet. Clean the hub face with a wire brush, so the new disc sits perfectly flat.

Step 5: New disc, carrier back on

Fit the new disc and its screw, tightened to 8 newton metres. Clean the carrier, check the guide pins and boots, and bolt it back on. 190 newton metres is the figure given for this car, but figures differ between versions, so check yours.

Step 6: Push the piston back

Clean the caliper piston, then push it back in, slowly, with the wind-back tool. The fluid in the reservoir will rise as it goes back, so keep an eye on it.

Step 7: New pads, caliper back on

Put a thin layer of anti-squeal paste where the pad backs touch the carrier, never on the friction side. Fit the new pads, refit the caliper, and tighten the guide bolts. 35 newton metres is the usual figure, 30 on some calipers.

Step 8: Wheel on, torque it

Spray the disc clean with brake cleaner. Refit the wheel, lower the car, and tighten the wheel bolts across in a star, to 120 newton metres.

Step 9: Pump the pedal: firm before you move

Before the car moves, with the engine off, pump the brake pedal until it feels firm. Then check the fluid level, top up if needed, and put the cap back on.

Afterwards: Other side, then go easy

Do the other side the same way. New pads and discs can feel different at first, so take it easy and follow the pad maker's bedding-in advice.

Figures and where they come from

Every figure in this guide is checked against at least two independent sources. Where sources disagree, we say so.

A guide, not advice on any one car. If in doubt, use a garage. NCT record and typical prices for this car. More DIY guides.